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Just one road links the port of Karavostasis in the SE with the last hamlet on the ridge at the NW end of the long narrow spine of this unusual island. Karavostasis is getting nicer – small hotels have begun to appear along the good sandy beach allowing visitors to stay by the sea; it lacks the charm of the Chora, but it does provide a cheaper option. The bus which meets every ferry climbs up the steep road to the central plateau to the Chora, nestling below an impressive cape with its castle and monastery. Chora is where it all happens. A series of small linked squares gives plenty of scope for shops, bars, boutiques and restaurants to thrive and acres of space for their myriad chairs and tables. In summer there is even some night life lurking in this area. On the sea side of the village is the old Castro, a complete circle of stone houses round a ruined castle. Beyond the castle there is a 700-foot drop into the sea. Those staying in Chora’s many hotels usually squeeze into the morning bus for a short trip to a point whence an almost vertical path leads you down to the island’s best beach, Ankali. Here there are a couple of tavernas and cliff paths take you to two or three more beaches. Sheltered from the Meltemi, it’s an ideal spot for swimming and sunbathing. If the climb back up in the evening daunts you, you can hire a donkey. The faithful island bus can be used to take you to the NW tip whence there is a wonderful panorama across to Milos, and a choice of routes down to small coves; leave yourself time to climb back up for the return journey. Folegandros can be combined with a stay on Santorini, Sikinos, Ios or Sifnos, though connections can be a bit dodgy in poor weather or outside the main summer season.
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